Refresh Rate Explained

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Trying to choose a TV today can be difficult. Very difficult. One of the most widely debated features of flat panel TVs is the ever confusing Refresh Rate. There are quite a number of different refresh rates being featured on today's Digital TVs. 50Hz, 100Hz, 200Hz, and 600Hz. These Refresh Rates can easily divide opinion.

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What is Refresh Rate, and why is it important?

Every video we watch is made up of thousands of "frames". The refresh rate, or "Hertz" (Hz) is a measure of the number of frames shown on your TV screen each second. Remember in your younger years, when you were bored in school and used to draw a stick figure in the top corner of every page in your book, and then flick through it quickly to make it look like it was moving? This is basically what your TV is doing to produce motion on the screen.

It is refreshing (i.e. flicking) through frames (i.e. pages) to produce motion. Now the quicker you can flick through pages in your book - the faster and smoother the stick figures motion seems to be. Secondly, the more stages of movement you draw the stick figure in on each page - the more natural it will seem to move.

So let's go back to our TV - if the same principal is applied, then the TV is able to show you a smoother motion if it can flick through its frames quicker. And by adding extra frames in between other frames - this causes the TV to produce a smoother transition from one frame to the other. So, the more times the screen can be "refreshed" every second, the smoother the image's motion will seem to be.

The standard broadcast signal we receive in Australia is 50Hz. That means that the image on your Digital TV is refreshed 50 times each second. 50Hz is a fairly slow rate, and it is possible to see blurring or judder in the picture when watching fast moving sporting events or action movies, or any scenes where the camera pans across very fast. So the way the TV fixes this issue is to create intermediate frames and then insert them between the original frames. This is referred to as interpolation, or 100Hz Technology.

"100Hz technology doubles the number of frames shown per second which helps to reduce the blurring and is ideal for watching action movies and sports."

To some people, the 100Hz motion can seem to be a bit "too" smooth initially, but once you adjust, it can be very difficult to return to a 50Hz TV, especially on a large screen. Today, larger and larger TVs have become very accessible in terms of price. Now because the picture is bigger, you will notice things like judder even more.

The majority of these large Flat Screen TVs (if not all) are 1080P Full HD. That means that there is a lot of information being displayed on the screen, and all of that information needs to be moved around very fast for it to look smooth. On a large Flat Screen TV running at 1080P and 50Hz, fast panning shots can show a lot of judder, because there is just so much image information being shifted around the screen, our eyes will pick up a lot of motion artefacts. So essentially, by doubling the number of frames, 100Hz removes the majority of motion judder.

So if 100Hz gets rid of judder, why do I need 200Hz?

Interpolation at 100Hz is good, but again, with a lot of Full HD, high resolution content like Blu-Ray, Gaming and more recently 3D Technology, now available to every home, and 46" - 65" LED screens surging in popularity due to plummeting prices - there's more benefit to be had from your TV doubling its refresh efforts. While 100Hz will certainly remove a lot of motion judder from LED TVs and LCD TVs, the bigger the screen, the more apparent the remaining artefacts and judder become. So 200Hz was born...

By inserting 3 additional frames between each existing frame, instead of one as 100hZ does, 200Hz processors improve motion smoothness further and succeed in making objects look more "solid". The aim of 200Hz is to keep objects such as Soccer Balls, or any small objects moving very fast across the screen, from losing their shape, blurring or breaking up when being propelled across the screen. However, it's not as simple as just adding an extra three frames - that's not quite the extent of the technology. A processor inside the TV looks at two sequential frames and then actually creates three NEW additional frames in between them.

Going back to our stick figure analogy, that means drawing four times as many stick figures by using four times as many pages, and flicking through those pages at the same speed. This fact, however, is where some 200Hz TVs succeed - or fail miserably!

Imagine you've drawn a stick figure on fifty pages, and can flick through those fifty pages in one second, without missing a page, and at a constant speed. Now double those pages, and you will find it harder to flick through the whole hundred pages without missing a few - let alone the same speed throughout. So your stick figure may seem to move smoothly, then judder, then smoothly again. Now, imagine trying to do that with two hundred pages. It's a struggle, and you are sure to miss a number of pages along the way. To put it one way - some people will do a better job than others.

This also rings very true for TVs. There are some processors out there which do a much better job than others do. There are some 200Hz processors which don't quite cut the mustard, and you can see odd frames skipping, lots of inaccurate and seemingly unnatural movement. So beware - not all 200Hz processors are created equal!

A lot of Plasma screens seem to highlight 600Hz - they must be at least three times faster, right?

Well in short - not exactly! What 600Hz Sub-Field Driving does, with a 50Hz source like how our Australian TV is broadcast, is split each frame into 12 separate frames or "sub-fields", and then show them individually on the screen. What it does not do is create NEW frames. That means 12 sub-fields per frame in 50Hz (frames per second) creates 600 frames per second (50x12=600). The more sub-fields you have per frame, the more accurate the colour reproduction and less picture noise.

So technically, 600Hz sub-field drive is not solely linked to, nor is its primary purpose, eliminating motion judder.

Why are the manufacturers causing all this confusion?

Because Plasma vs. LCD technology is still the biggest debate when it comes to choosing a Flat Screen TV. The difference in technology is causing manufacturers like Panasonic, Samsung, LG and Sony to heavily promote features and benefits of their panels to attract customers.

As far as LCD, and now LED Digital TV Panels have advanced - the fact of the matter is that for smooth, natural motion in fast scenes - a Plasma is still superior.

With the way Plasma technology works, 100Hz or 200Hz isn't a useful feature to have. But with LCD and LED heavily marketing 100Hz/200Hz, from a marketing perspective they needed a number to combat that. Some added 100Hz before, but now 200Hz LED and LCD have become more common, so they've started quoting the sub-field number - 600Hz.

The same thing happened with 1080p and 'Full HD'. LCD manufacturers introduced terms on their TVs - purely from a marketing perspective - to try and deflect attention from the fact that a good Plasma TV produced a more "natural" picture.

In reality, the plasma manufacturers are being slightly misleading in how they market 600Hz sub field driving. In one way they are saying to customers that our 600Hz is a feature that helps remove motion judder three times as much as a 200Hz TV.

While this is not directly true - they are using it to promote a very true feature of plasma technology - superior motion handling. There is a little bit of "the pot calling the kettle black" when it comes to the LCD manufacturers though. While it is true that 200Hz was designed to aid motion on a large screen TV - the fact that the resulting image can often seem unnatural during fast scenes puts a big question mark over whether this aids or hinders what the customer is seeing. The insertion of frames that are not meant to be there can make it all look a little fake, in many people's opinion. If you do encounter that, it's best to disable it for that particular movie.

So, what is best? 100Hz, 200Hz or 600Hz?

In summary, for fast paced natural movement, Plasma screens are still superior. They do not need to create extra frames to eliminate motion judder, so the resulting image seen is not fake or unnatural. There are pros and cons for both Plasma and LCD technology, and opinion will always be divided one way or another, but if you prefer a smooth, natural picture - even though LCD and LED technology has improved immensely - a Plasma screen is still the way to go.

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Sometimes where high tech meets the average consumer communicating is often like speaking two separate languages. You might a 46 inch LCD HDTV 720p flat screen you absolutely love but have no idea why it's 0 dollars cheaper than the same brand 46 inch LCD HDTV 1080p right next to it. To you the TV's are the same size but if you checked the picture out you would see the difference. So lets give a brief synopsis on the key terms when you shop for your next flat screen.

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LCD - Liquid Crystal Display: A display method created back in the 1960s where the orientation of rod shaped molecules (like a liquid) bend light like a crystal would. So if you vary the orientation of these filters it will determine how the light you ultimately see passes through the crystals. LCD are not new but the technology is still out there and in use today. You can also find LCD screens used for computers monitors. They provide a very clean image and is what most flat screen TVs are made with today.

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HDTV - High Definition Television: The highest form of digital TV you can receive. You can think of it as if you were watching a movie at the movie theater with its 16:9 aspect ratio. Also along with HDTV is the resolution you can have, 720p, 1080i and 1080p. To give you a starting reference, traditional TV sets had a 480 lines. The lines determine how good of a resolution you are going to have. We also have the "i" and "p" which follow the number of lines used to create an image. These stand for "interlaced" and "progressive". Just remember that the progressive scan is the more desirable as it processes the image twice as fast as the interlaced scan. What this will do for you is create a better clarity and and color on your final picture. Also keep in mind that these scans are considered more important on flat screens larger than 32 inches. So when you purchase a 46 inch LCD HDTV 1080p you want to keep this in mind.

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You want to buy a new digital camera but you wonder what all these abbreviations and strange terms are and what do they mean? Here are a few which I have tried to explain in a simple way.

Camera Optical Zoom

AE Lock. This means Auto Exposure Lock and means that you can point to your subject matter, get a light reading, then swing the camera to set up the complete picture, still retaining that setting.

Camera Optical Zoom

Aperture. Size of the variable opening in the lens that controls the amount of light that passes through the lens to the sensor (CCD) and which is usually expressed as an f/number.The higher the f/number the smaller aperture, and the lower the f/number the larger the aperture. Also controls depth of field.

Aperture Priority. This is a semi-manual setting in some cameras. The user sets the aperture for the depth of field they want and the camera sets the shutter speed to obtain correct exposure.

Auto Focus. Most digital cameras have an auto-focus mode which focuses the lens

Battery. Cameras come with different types of batteries which power the camera. Each manufacturer tends to have their own variation on this and batteries are not usually interchangeable between cameras.

Bracketing. Bracketing shots is where a photographer takes shots of the same scene three times or more at different exposures. This can be done automatically on some cameras.

Card reader. Device that is used to connect the computer with your memory card

CCD or charged coupled device. This refers to the chip inside the camera which is used to record image information (on a non-digital camera this would be the film).

Light hits the CCD when a photo is taken, and then the analog CCD converts the information to digital.

Contrast. This is the difference between the lightest and darkest part of a photo.

Depth of Field. The distance between the nearest point and farthest point, that is sharp and in focus. This varies with aperture setting. A small aperture will give greater depth of field than a large aperture.

Digital Zoom. Some cameras will provide digital zoom which really means that it "zooms" into the center part of the image and enlarges the pixels. This causes " noise" or poor resolution. Optical zoom is far superior.

DPI Dots per inch. Printers define the sharpness of an image by DPI. A figure of 1200 dpi, or higher is required for printing photographs.

Exposure. Exposure is a combination of how long the shutter is open and how wide the aperture is.

EXIF. The exchangeable image file. This is used by cameras to record data of a shot such as date, time taken, exposure etc which can be read sometimes in the camera or in software. This is useful for knowing what was happening when a picture was taken.

Exposure Control. Controlling exposure settings through shutter speed and aperture is important to serious photographers. Cheaper digital cameras will only shoot in auto mode. If you feel that you might want to take photography more seriously at some point this needs to be considered.

Focal length.Focal length describes the magnification of the lens. The greater the focal length, the greater the magnification.

F-Stop (or f/number or stop). The size of the opening in the diaphragm which allows light into the camera

Histogram.A histogram is a graph which shows image tones or a graph of brightness. Can be used to check exposure of a shot to see if you need to adjust and shoot again.

JPEG (Joint Photographic Experts Group). A format, that that allows the camera to squeeze a large picture into a small amount of memory. This is the most common system used by digital cameras

LCD Liquid Crystal Display. The majority of digital cameras have a screen at the back of the camera which can be used for viewing shots taken or sometimes as a viewfinder. A heavy user of battery power!

Macro.This is the camera mode for taking extreme close-ups.

Manual mode. This is found on top end cameras and is used by experienced photographers as this gives full control over shutter speed and aperture.

Megapixel. This is a million pixels and can describe the sensor's capacity. Megapixels define the quality of your image. More megapixels means a better and sharper picture or that it can be enlarged without losing quality.

Memory Card.The majority of digital cameras store pictures taken onto memory cards which can be removed and the pictures transferred to your computer. Cards are of various shapes and sizes but all do the same job.

Memory Stick. Memory Stick is a removable flash memory card format, launched by Sony in October 1998 and is also used in general to describe the whole family of Memory Sticks.

Optical zoom. This is a true zoom that brings you closer to the subject without moving by magnifying the image. It is preferable and superior to digital zoom. It is recommended to get at least 3x optical zoom.

Pictbridge. Pictbridge is a standard technology that allows the transfer of images direct from a camera to a compliant printer, bypassing the computer.

Pixels. A pixel, meaning picture element, is the base component or building block of a digital image and can have color and tone.

There can be several million "building blocks" in an image.

RAW .The name is to identify the virtually raw data (has had no internal processing by the camera) image file format.

Resolution. A measure of an image expressed as picture size or pixel (megapixel) size or dots per inch on a printed image i.e. the more pixels there are in an image the sharper the picture will be. This is usually shown as, for example, 1200 x 1800 which relates to height and width.

Shutter priority. This is a semi-manual mode and the opposite of aperture priority.

The photographer chooses the shutter speed and the camera sets the correct aperture for the conditions.

Useful for action shots or the need to blur shots.

SLR. Single Lens Reflex is a camera which has a mirror that reflects the image onto a pentaprism and then on to the viewfinder screen. This means you see what the camera sees and is useful for framing your shots accurately.

The mirror reflexes out of the way when you take the picture.

Secure Digital (SD) is a flash memory card format developed for use in portable devices.

Sensor or CCD.An electronic chip, or light sensor which contains light- sensitive pixels and which records the image when you take a picture.

Shutter Speed. Speed of the shutter as it opens and close to allow light onto the sensor. It is expressed in fractions of a second i.e.1/60, 1/250

TIFF Tagged Image File Format. TIFF is an image file format that does not lose any quality when it is saved and compressed.

Tripod. If you are taking landscape or portrait photos a tripod is essential for clear, sharp photos in order to reduce camera shake and blurring of images.

USB. Universal Serial Bus. This is a standard interface on all computers that allows accessories to be connected to the computer while it is turned on.

I hope this is useful!

Camera Optical Zoom

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